It is always special to share extraordinary landscapes like Hetch Hetchy with others. We had an opportunity to do that last week with three Colorado University graduate students who were visiting as part of a “Capstone” research project. (The students, supervised by their professors, are doing a two-part project for Restore Hetch Hetchy: (1) a water taste test to compare how people perceive San Francisco’s water compared to that of other Bay Area water agencies, and (2) a comparison of recreational opportunities available at municipal water supply reservoirs in western states. We’ll talk further about this research when it is further along.)
The Capstone Team from Colorado University with Executive Director Spreck Rosekrans, cooling off at Wapama Falls. (Photo: Isabella Rosekrans)
The trail to Wapama is typically hot in June, as it lies in full sun against granite cliffs on the north side of the reservoir. We got a reasonably early start after a short tour of the meager “campground”, the cabins where San Francisco’s elite stay, the boat ramp (currently under repair) and the dam.
The students were excited to be in California and, after several months of anticipation, to see Hetch Hetchy for the first time. They knew its history and have learned much about how the water system works, as well as Restore Hetch Hetchy’s efforts to return the valley to its natural splendor while meeting the water and power needs of all who rely on the Tuolumne River.
Wapama Falls was flowing at about 500 cubic feet per second – a perfect flow, high enough to get soaking wet from the spray of the falls but not so high as to make crossing the bridges treacherous. (The flow at Wapama is measure by a hidden gage atop the falls and posted in real time on the California Data Exchange Center (CDEC) website.
The walk back was hot indeed, especially after the first mile when our clothes had dried out. We mused about strolling instead across a shaded valley after the reservoir was relocated, and we also discussed Restore Hetch Hetchy’s proposal for a trail to the top of the falls.
After visiting Hetch Hetchy, the Capstone Team spent a day in Yosemite Valley, before returning to the Bay Area to initiate the water taste test. (Again, more on that later after additional data has been collected and analyzed.)
Also, we had an opportunity to visit Hetch Hetchy at dawn for the first time. (At our behest, National Park Service has expanded the hours when it is permissible to go to Hetch Hetchy.) We entered the park at first light and drove the narrow road without seeing any other cars. The cliffs and waterfalls were sublime as the sun slowly rose over the canyon – the reservoir less so. We’ll need to stay for the sunset next time.
Earlier this week, the San Francisco Chronicle predicted that Yosemite’s waterfalls would reach their peak flows in early June. We will see if that’s the case, or whether the flows reached in mid-May will remain the highest of the 2024 snowmelt season.
Either way it is a spectacular time to be in Yosemite. When the water is high, the “Mist Trail” to Vernal Falls nomenclature is misleading. The “mist” is an icy torrent shooting upwards – perhaps welcome and exhilarating on a hot day but a bit intimidating and possibly dangerous as well.
Wapama Falls at Hetch Hetchy is a twisting torrent unlike any other in Yosemite, reminiscent of braided hair being continuously unraveled in the wind. The first bridge at Wapama, however is treacherous to cross at high water – hikers have been swept off to their deaths. The National Park Service has not yet replaced the bridge as planned but hopes to do so later this year. (This long overdue project is funded by San Francisco as constructing the trail past Wapama was mandated by the 1913 Raker Act which allowed the City to dam and flood Hetch Hetchy Valley.)
The westernmost bridge (see “B” in photo) at Wapama is treacherous to cross when the falls are at their most spectacular.
Yosemite and Hetch Hetchy Valleys are both about 8 miles long, but Hetch Hetchy is much narrower. The Tuolumne River watershed, however, is larger than the Merced River watershed so the Tuolumne carries more water. Thus, a larger river in a narrower valley once and will again stand out in that valley more so than the Merced River does in Yosemite Valley.
Both the Tuolumne River and the Merced River double in size (more or less) as they pass through Hetch Hetchy and Yosemite Valleys respectively. Within Hetch Hetchy, the Tuolumne River is also fed by Rancheria, Tiltill and Falls Creeks (Wapama Falls). Merced River inflows to Yosemite Valley are measured at the Happy Isles Bridge (below Vernal Falls), and augmented by Tenaya Creek, Yosemite Creek (Yosemite Falls) and other streams before tumbling over cataracts at the valley’s western end.
There is no way to measure Yosemite Falls, but its watershed and elevation are similar in size (~44 square miles) to that of Wapama Falls, so it is reasonable to assume that their flows are similar.
All of Yosemite is spectacular 365 days a year, but if you love thundering waterfalls now is the time to go.
Our spring newsletter is in mailboxes and posted online!. If you haven’t received a printed copy but would like one, let us know.
First a quick update: The National Park Service has told us that it is working on a written response to our legal assertions that human-powered boating and fishing at Hetch Hetchy MUST be allowed and that visitors MUST be allowed to pass through the entrance gate at any time of day. We are looking forward to this response. We will not speculate what it might say, but we do fully intend to keep the pressure on so Hetch Hetchy will be as attractive to visitors as possible.
A few additional thoughts about dams: The impending removal of Scott (storage) and Cape Van Horn (diversion) Dams on the Eel River is a project to watch closely. Like O’Shaughnessy Dam & Hetchy Hetchy Reservoir (and unlike the Klamath Dams), the Eel River Dams are part of a water supply system. The Sonoma County Water Agency may still be able to divert some of the river’s flow at Cape Van Horn, but it will not be able to rely on water stored at Lake Pillsbury. Similarly, when Hetch Hetchy is restored, the river’s flow can still be diverted into the Canyon Tunnel as it leaves Hetch Hetchy Valley.
Lake Pillsbury will be gone. We don’t know whether some of the Eel’s flow will still be diverted south to the Russian River watershed.
And please join us at our annual dinner on October 26 at the (easily accessible) Lafayette Veterans Memorial Center. We’re thrilled that Pulitzer Prize winner Tom Philp will join us. Tom is passionate about Hetch Hetchy and thoughtful about the path to restoration. You’ll love him.
Restore Hetch Hetchy has joined two dozen businesses and organizations to support fishing at Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. See our group letter to the National Park Service.
Technically, fishing is not prohibited. A sign in the parking lot says fishing is indeed allowed from the bank of the reservoir (with artificial lures). But several official National Park Service documents prohibit visitors from going below the high water mark of Hetch Hetchy Reservoir! Given that the reservoir is rarely full, it is not permissible to go anywhere near the water. If you cannot go near the water, how can you fish?
It makes no sense.
Photo: Phil Akers, MyOutdoorBuddy.com
Banning access below the high water mark goes far beyond anything Congress contemplated when it debated and ultimately passed the Raker Act. Further, the Raker Act precludes the National Park Service from adding additional restrictions to protect water quality beyond specified criteria prohibiting bathing, washing dishes and human waste etc.
We are pleased to work with the business and organizations listed below, and we are hopeful that the National Park Service will modify this senseless policy in short order.
Aspen Outdoor Management Services ◊ California Sportfishing Protection Alliance Echo Cooperative ◊ Evergreen Lodge, Rush Creek Lodge & Firefall Ranch ◊ Fly Fisherman Magazine ◊ Friends of the River ◊ Merced Fly Fishers ◊ Nesporado Fly Fishing ◊ Northern California Council, Fly Fishers International Pasadena Casting Club ◊ Restore Hetch Hetchy◊ Santa Barbara Fly Fishers ◊ Santa Cruz Fly Fishing Club ◊ Sierra Nevada Alliance ◊ Sonora Fly Company ◊ Stanislaus Fly Fishers ◊ Tight Line Therapy ◊ Trout Unlimited ◊ Trout Unlimited Central Sierra Chapter ◊ Tuolumne River Trust ◊ Yosemite Fly Fishing ◊ Yosemite Fly Fishing Guides ◊ Yosemite Adventure Guides ◊ Yosemite Outfitters
Restore Hetch Hetchy is continuing to encourage the National Park Service to improve access and increase recreational opportunities at Hetch Hetchy – even with the dam in place.
Advocating for an improved visitor experience in the short term is a key part of our campaign to relocate Hetch Hetchy Reservoir so Hetch Hetchy Valley can be returned to its natural splendor – a majestic glacier-carved valley with towering cliffs and waterfalls, an untamed place where river and wildlife run free, a new kind of national park.
Kayakers enjoy Tenaya Lake. Human-powered vessels are allowed on all water bodies in Yosemite, except Hetch Hetchy Reservoir – contrary to the express intentions of Congress when it passed the Raker Act. Photo: Moonjazz
Allowing visitors to explore the reservoir by kayak or canoe would provide outstanding vistas, including views of Tueeulala and Wapama Falls unavailable from the trail. Boating would provide access for picnickers to hike to Rancheria Falls, climbers to scale Hetch Hetchy Dome and fishermen to try their luck on streams feeding the reservoir.
We haven’t heard back for the Superintendent or National Park Service, but will let you know when we do.
In “Eel River’s rebirth requires sacrifice”, San Francisco Chronicle reporter Kurtis Alexander reminds us that dam removals require balancing the benefits dams provide with the harm they cause. Ironically, Scott and Cape Horn Dams were built for hydropower production (some of California’s earliest such facilities) but are now used to augment water supply for Potter Valley farmers and others in Sonoma County.
Diversions have averaged about 48,000 acre-feet over the last ten years. Without water stored upstream in Lake Pillsbury, diversions would only be possible during winter and spring.
The best outcome for the Eel River and its fisheries would be no diversions AND access to expanded spawning habitat above Scott Dam. Potter Valley farmers, however, would like to maintain the ability to divert some of the water. We’ll see what happens as plans for dam removal go forward.
Only the Kirkwood Plant is directly connected to Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.
When Hetch Hetchy is restored, water could still be diverted to San Francisco via the Canyon Tunnel as it leaves Hetch Hetchy Valley. Such a diversion would not make a difference to water supply. Those flows could still be stored or diverted downstream, but would allow roughly 64% of the hydropower currently generated at the Kirkwood Powerhouse to continue. Without the diversion, no generation at Kirkwood would be possible (hydropower production at San Francisco’s Holm and Moccasin facilities will continue with only minor changes).
Similar to the Eel River, water supply is the principal issue at Hetch Hetchy and the one that needs to be resolved. A final solution, however, will need to replace lost hydropower as well.
